 Each
year, Central
Coast Magazine hosts
an event designed
to spotlight
the culinary
talent of the
region. This
year we introduced
our own version
of “kitchen
stadium,” where
nearly 30 top
chefs in the
region competed
to be named Ultimate
Chef Central
Coast.
WELCOME
TO BATTLE CHEESE.
The
rules were simple.
Each chef was
asked to prepare
four dishes using
a secret ingredient:
one appetizer,
one main dish,
one dessert,
and one wild
card dish of
their choosing.
The secret ingredient
was the same
for all chefs,
is readily available,
and gave each
chef great creative
opportunities,
leaving a lot
of room for interpretation.
Chefs were required to use one
blue-veined, one soft ripened, one hard
ripened, and one other
cheese of their choice. There
were no restrictions on which type should
be used for which dish. While they could
use more than four varieties of cheese – there
were no extra points for using additional
kinds, though a few bonus points were awarded
for using unusual cheeses. The chefs prepared
the entries in their own restaurant, and
four judges visited each location to score
the results. The judging included points
for originality, plating, and overall flavor,
and bonus points were awarded for exceptional
artistic merit, the use of unusual cheeses,
the overall flow of the menu, and one extra
point we called the oh my God factor. If,
when the judge tasted the dish, he or she
said “Oh my God,” Chef got
the extra point. Every single participant
gave the contest their best efforts. Some
presented us with samples of the cheeses
so we could see and taste them in their
unadulterated state. Others gave us literature
on the cheeses they used. They all claimed
to have fun, and to have learned a few
things about cheese in the process. Some
of the dishes were interpretations of existing
menu items, while others were complete
departures from what the restaurant normally
serves. It was all delicious, and all in
good fun. We encourage you to turn out
in support of all the chefs who took part,
as they are the best the Central Coast
has to offer.
AND
THE WINNER
IS:
Chef WILHELM
HOPPE
Hoppe’s
Garden Bistro,
Cayucos
The
Ultimate Chef
Those who have been on the Central Coast
for any period of time would assume that
Wilhelm “Bill” Hoppe of Hoppe’s
Garden Bistro would place high in the contest;
the fact that he is Ultimate Chef will not
come as a surprise to most. Years as a
leader in the region’s cuisine culminated
in his eponymous restaurant opening nearly
seven years ago. Hoppe, who studied and
trained extensively in Europe, is a graduate
of the Culinary Institute of America and
his famed wine list is indicative of his
commitment to excellent pairings of food
and wine; Hoppe recently passed certified
sommelier accreditation. As we were seated,
Hoppe presented a plate of the cheeses
he used, allowing us to taste them in their
original form, and fully experience how
they were transformed in his skilled hands.
His menu began with a stunning dish, the
Flan of Cauliflower and St. George. So
visually striking, we contemplated whether
we should actually eat it, or just admire
it. Chef Hoppe will gladly make any of
the dishes from the competition for guests,
just call a week in advance and make a
special request. We recommend that you
ask for the complete menu – and see
for yourself why Bill Hoppe is indeed Ultimate
Chef Central Coast.
MENU
The
Runners Up
Two chefs
with completely
differently culinary
styles tied for
the honor of
being named Runner
Up.
Chef
RYAN SWARTHOUT
Deborah’s
Room at the JustInn, Paso
Robles
Chef Ryan Swarthout
of Deborah’s Room at Justin Winery
is charged with the appealing task
of preparing intricate wine country
cuisine for the intimate dining room
of just eight tables. Trained at the
Culinary Academy of California, Swarthout
worked in several notable San Francisco
restaurants before joining the Justin
team in 2002. For his presentation,
Chef Ryan capitalized on fresh local
ingredients, and engaged us with some
unique flavor combinations and surprise
elements, such as the perfectly prepared
scallops with Piave Vecchio sauce and
roasted pears, which were highlighted
with truffle granola. His decadent
chocolate cake with blue cheese ice
cream rated the unanimous point for
the “Oh my God” factor,
and we’re delighted he shared
the recipe.
MENU
 Chef
RICK MANSON
Chef Rick’s,
Santa Maria
The colorful and creative Chef Rick is
a master of flavors. To quote ourselves
from the April issue of CCM, his influences
are “slightly Creole, sometimes South
West, a dose of wine country, and always
well seasoned.” This chef’s
food has a lot of personality, and for
this competition, he didn’t hold
back. His presentation was colorful, packed
with taste, and simply delicious. While
we had to ding his Creole Macaroni and
Cheese in the originality category, it
was unlike any we’d had, scoring
high in overall taste. But it was the Aged
Goat Cheese and Artichoke Fritter recipe
that we asked Chef Rick to provide.
MENU
Standout
Dishes:
APPETIZER:
Chef
SHAWN WASHBURN
from Shawn’s
on Main, Morro Bay
While a grilled cheese sandwich might seem
a surprising choice for a stand out dish,
it was the totality of Shawn Washburn’s
entry that earned him this notice – and
the fact that this was no mere grilled
cheese. Brightly flavored gazpacho consommé proved
the perfect foil for the smoked salmon
and ricotta in the croque monsieur.
Gazpacho
Consommé with Smoked Salmon and
Ricotta Salata Croque Monsieur
WILD
CARD:
Chef DEBORAH
SCARBOROUGH
from Black
Cat Bistro,
Cambria
While figs and cheese are a common combination,
this interpretation of fig soup with blue
cheese foam was a departure from the norm.
Chef Deborah served it with Rogue River
Blue Cheese Shortbread, which we recommend.
Fig
Soup with Rogue
River Blue
and Mascarpone
Brandied Foam
We sampled several wonderful savory shortbreads
along the way, but particularly relished
Maegen Loring’s version served with
fig and sauternes jelly.
Rogue
River Blue Cheese Shortbreads with Fig
and Sauternes Jelly
ENTRÉE:
Chef EVAN TREADWELL from Lido Restaurant,
Shell Beach
There are some dishes that just soar. Perfect
individual ingredients come together to
create the ultimate achievement: the sum
ends up greater than the parts. Chef Evan’s
use of blue cheesecake to complement the
beef took a standard pairing to a new level.
Blue
Costello and Bacon Cheesecake with Seared
Filet Mignon, Caramelized Red Onions
and Foie Gras
DESSERT:
Chef CHRIS KOBAYASHI from Artisan Restaurant,
Paso Robles
Cheese certainly lends itself to great
dessert creations, and we enjoyed many
unique approaches, some quite complex and
intricate. Chef Chris’s beignets
were perfect in their simplicity. Flawlessly
fried and crispy on the outside, soft and
cheesy, mellow ricotta inside. The chef
served it with four dipping sauces – Kahlua
anglaise, chocolate ganache, caramel, and
lemon curd – but there’s no
reason you can’t just use your own
favorite.
Sheep’s
Milk Ricotta Beignets
Trends:
Poached
pears pair
perfectly
with cheese, and
we encountered
quite a few:
At Big Sky,
Tim Koch’s Blue
Napoleon
with Poached
Pears, Raspberries & Thyme; at
Papillon,
Jensen Lorenzen’s Port
Poached Bosc
Pear filled
with Mascarpone
Chantilly; at
Rosa’s,
Doug McMillan’s Pinot
Grigio Poached
Pears in
Caramel Basket
with Mascarpone
Crème
Patissiere; and
at Windows
on the Water,
Pandee Pearson’s Spice
Poached Pear
on Sage Short
Bread with
Explorateur
Cheese and
Gilded White
Truffle Honey, to
name a few.
We chose
Heather Strandberg
of The Porch’s Port & Truffle
Honey Poached
Pear stuffed
with Brillat
Savarin on
bed of Dark
Chocolate
Ganache as
a standout
amongst a
great crowd.
Simply
put, cheese
makes great
ice cream. Of
course you
might not want
to try it with
limburger,
but cultures
all over the
world make
cheese ice
cream, from
cheddar in
the Philippines
to Parmesan
in Italy (which
would be wonderful
served with
apple tarte
tatin). Our
chefs served
us several
varieties,
including Chef
Rick’s
ricotta ice
cream with
his blue cheese
beignets, and
Ryan Swarthout’s
killer blue
cheese ice
cream paired
with chocolate
cake. Budi
Kazali of
The Ballard
Inn served
a perfect Goat
Cheese Sorbet that
made us swoon.
Study
of Cheeses: Several
chefs offered
an overview of
soft ripened
cheese in their
presentations.
Todd Fischer
of Hullabaloo
prepared Cow
Girl Creamery
Times Two, showcasing
their Red Hawk
and Mt. Tam cheese.
Chris Kobayashi
offered Four
Tastes of Cheese
as his wildcard
dish. Tom
Fundaro of
Villa Creek served Jean
de Brie 3 Ways on
three different
shortbreads,
which highlighted
just how the
companion ingredients
affect the flavor
of the cheese.
Notable
Blue Cheese:
Blue
cheese can be
hard or soft,
and is made from
cow, goat, or
sheep milk. During
the contest we
were treated
to blues from
England, Italy,
Spain, France,
Germany, Australia,
Denmark, and
the United States.
While blue cheese
always has one
thing in common – penicillium
mold – each
has such a distinct
flavor and texture;
so much so as
to sometimes
seem a completely
different variety
of cheese. It
was fascinating
to see the skill
with which each
chef matched
his blue to his
dish. Both Doug
McMillan of Rosa’s
and Richard Wirz
of Guiseppe’s
served halibut
with gorgonzola
offset with lemon;
at Rosa’s
it was in a puff
pastry with a
lemon gorgonzola
cream sauce,
and at Guiseppe’s
it was served
over a saffron
and lemon risotto
with a creamy
dolce latte gorgonzola
sauce.
While blue cheese and meat is a common
marriage, we found chefs transforming this
ingredient into more significant components
than a simple sauce, such as Chef Even
Treadwell with his Blue
Cheesecake in the standout entrée.
Other interpretations included Chris Kobayashi’s
Prime Filet with Fourme d’Ambert
Fritters, Greg Perello’s Wild Boar
Strip Loin with Gorgonzola Polenta, and
Budi Kazali’s Lamb with Fourme d’Ambert & Asian
Pear Soufflé.
Tony Baker of Montrio Bistro in Monterey
used an English blue called Shropshire – an
orange Stilton style cheese – in
his Lancashire
Onion Stew. This old English dish of
lamb broth and sweet yellow onions, topped
with a poached egg, needs this full- flavored
blue to stand up to the hearty ingredients.
Chef TONY
BAKER from Montrio Bistro, Monterey
Lancashire
Onion Stew with Free Range Egg
and Shropshire Blue
Click
here for a
glossary of
blue cheeses
presented during
the contest.
Notable
Soft Ripened
Cheese:
Most
of us fell in
love with soft
ripened cheese
the first time
we spread a bit
of brie on a
slice of baguette.
There are, though,
as many kinds
of soft ripened
cheeses as there
are ways to prepare
it. Chef Maegen
Loring at The
Park prepared Curried
Brie in Phyllo
with Apricot
Chutney & Citrus
Greens. Laurent
Grangien at Bistro
Laurent served
a spectacular Croustade
of Veal Cheeks
and Sweetbreads
with Reblochon. We
asked Chef André Averseng
at Dining with
André to
share his Brie & Basil
Papeton, a
savory appetizer
from the south
of France made
from grilled
eggplant, and
stuffed with
mushrooms, brie,
and basil, with
a Parmesan paprika
tuile.
Chef
ANDRÉ AVERSENG
from Dining with
André, Paso
Robles
Brie & Basil
Papeton
We also discovered a use for stinky taleggio that
transforms this pungent cheese into a luscious
ingredient. At Café Roma, Chef Brian
Price melted taleggio on his pizza dough
and topped it with prosciutto and arugula
for an outstanding pizza. Pandee Pearson
from Windows on the Water used taleggio
in her delicious Local
Chanterelle Mushroom abd Tallegio Cheese
bruschetta.
Click
here for a
glossary soft-ripened
cheeses used
during the
contest.
Notable
Hard Ripened
Cheese:
We
certainly encountered
plenty of Parmesan
in the hard ripened
category, but
we also discovered
quite a few other
varieties we
were less familiar
with. When we
were served Parmesan,
it was frequently
used in a unique
way, such as
the Parmigiano
broth that accompanied
Pandee Pearson’s Proscuitto
Wrapped Quail. This
is a great use
for your leftover
Parmesan rinds
which, after
tasting this
rich broth, you
will never throw
away again. Chef
Pandee says, “All
parts of Parmesan
cheese are edible.
The rinds add
great flavor
to soups, slow
cooked beans,
braised vegetables,
and broths.” Rinds
can be frozen
until ready to
use.
Chef
PANDEE PEARSON
from Windows on
the Water, Morro
Bay
Prosciutto
Wrapped Quail and Fontina D’Aosta
Arancine in Parmigiano Broth
with Fig Balsamic Jam and Pistachio
Gremolata
Click
here for a glossary of hard-ripened
cheeses used during the contest.
Cheese
of Choice:
The
final category
of required cheese
was not a category
at all, but rather
an invitation
for chefs to
use any type
they liked. This
left plenty of
room fresh cheeses,
a common choice,
as we came across
mascarpone, ricotta,
and fromage blanc.
It also opened
up the goat cheese
category, as
chefs chose both
traditional chevre,
as well as Humboldt
Fog with its
layer of vegetable
ash in the center.
Other cheeses chosen were not so familiar:
Boschetto al Tartuffo (Shawn Washburn),
Abbaye de Belloc (Tim Koch), and Burrata
(Deborah Scarborough), to name a few. And
not all unusual cheeses were imported;
including Matos St. George from Sonoma
County, and Mike’s Firehouse White
Cheddar from Spring Hill Dairy.
Though there was no prize for most unusual
cheese, if there were, it would go to Maegen
Loring of The Park. She used a Norwegian
cheese in her Olive Oil Pound Cake with
Crushed Strawberries, which she topped
with crispy sprinkles of Gjetost; a blend
of goat and cow’s milk with the sweet
flavors of caramel and peanut butter.
For
the glossary of cheeses presented during
the contest, click here. |
|
JUMP
TO:
The
Ultimate Chef
The
Runners Up
Standout
Dishes
Trends
Notable
Blue Cheese
Notable
Soft Ripened
Cheese
Notable
Hard Ripened
Cheese
Cheese
of Choice |
